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| ВВЕДЕНИЕ | 4
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| ГЛАВА I. Типология женского костюма для верховой езды | 7
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| 1.1. Общие положения | 7
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| 1.2. Амазонки 2-й половины XIX - начала XX вв. для различных типов cедел | 17
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| 1.3. Английский стиль формальных амазонок. Шефские и военные мундиры. Амазонки для Императорского двора | 29
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| 1.4. Одежда для конного спорта. Поло-ролевые стереотипы и спорт в контексте культуры конца XIX - середины XX вв | 39
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| 1.5. Этикет ношения костюма для конной охоты. Регламент и практика | 50
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| ГЛАВА II. Компоненты женского костюма для верховой езды | 62
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| 2.1. Женские головные уборы для верховой езды в западноевропейской культуре Нового времени | 62
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| 2.2. Белошвейные и галантерейные изделия в экипировке всадницы. Блузы и сорочки. Галстуки, жабо и манжеты. Носовые платки, чулки и перчатки | 72
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| 2.3. Спортивный корсет как атрибут женского костюма для верховой езды. Корсеты, бандажи, бинты и бюстенгальтеры | 87
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| 2.4. Разновидности форм поясной одежды для верховой езды. Бриджи и панталоны. Галифе и джодпуры | 91
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| 2.5. Обувь, шпоры и элементы сбора для женской верховой езды 2-й половины XIX - начала XX вв | 95
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| 2.6. Особенности ювелирных изделий для всадницы. Часы и ювелирные украшения. Трости и хлысты | 99
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| ГЛАВА III. Костюм для верховой езды как вершина портновского искусства | 105
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| 3.1.Выбор материи для пошива. Снятие мерок и изготовление выкроек | 105
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| 3.2. Основные технологические этапы изготовления амазонки | 116
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| 3.3. Декоративная отделка одежды для верховой езды. Басонные изделия и позументы в мундирных и амуничных вещах 2-й половины XIX - начала XX вв | 132
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| 3.4. Уход за экипировкой и снаряжением. Средства, приемы и рекомендации | 138
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| ЗАКЛЮЧЕНИЕ | 146
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| ГЛОССАРИЙ | 147
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| БИБЛИОГРАФИЧЕСКИЙ СПИСОК | 153
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| ПРИЛОЖЕНИЯ | 164
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| 1. Женский костюм для верховой езды на страницах модных журналов | 164
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| 2. Изменение женского костюма для верховой езды в 1860-1972 гг | 167
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| 3. Чертежи, составленные по руководствам кройки и шитья 2-й половины XIX - начала XX вв | 174
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| 4. Семантика и функционал церемониального убранства упряжной и верховой лошади в XVIII - начале XX вв | 193
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| SUMMARY | 201
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| CONTENTS | 203
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| Contents | 3
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| INTRODUCTION | 4
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| CHAPTER I. The typology of women riders’ clothing | 7
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| 1.1. General observations | 7
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| 1.2. Habits of the latter half of the 19th–early 20th century for various kinds of saddle | 17
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| 1.3. English style of formal habits. Patrons outfit and military uniform. Habits for the Court of His Imperial Majesty | 29
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| 1.4. Clothing for competitions in mounted sports. Stereotypes of gender roles and horse sports in the context of culture of the late 19th – mid-20th century | 39
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| 1.5. Hunting dress etiquette. Regulations and practice | 50
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| CHAPTER II. The sidesaddle outfit | 62
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| 2.1. Women’s sidesaddle headdresses in Western European culture | 62
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| 2.2. Seamstress-made articles and haberdashery in the sidesaddle outfit. Blouses and shirts. Ties, stocks, jabot and cuffs. Handkerchiefs, stockings and gloves | 72
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| 2.3. Athletic corset as an attribute of the sidesaddle outfit. Corsets, protectors, bandages and brassières | 87
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| 2.4. Varieties of waist-high rider’s garments. Breeches and pants. Jodhpurs | 91
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| 2.5. Footwear, spurs and parts of a saddle for sidesaddle riding in the latter half of the 19th–early 20th century | 95
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| 2.6. Specific traits of women rider’s jewellery. Watches and jewellery. Canes and whips | 99
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| CHAPTER III. Riding wear as the peak of tailoring | 105
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| 3.1. The choose of fabric. Measuring and cutting out patterns | 105
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| 3.2. The main phases of habit making | 116
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| 3.3. Finishing of riding dress. Braids and galoons in the uniform of the latter half of the 19th–early 20th century | 132
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| 3.4. Equipment care. Means, methods and recommendations | 138
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| CONCLUSION | 146
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| GLOSSARY | 147
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| BIBLIOGRAPHY | 153
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| APPENDICES | 164
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| 1. Women riders’ outfit in fashion magazines | 164
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| 2. Changing of women riders’ clothing in 1860–1972 | 167
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| 3. Drawings made after sewing manuals of the latter half of the 19th–early 20th century | 174
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| 4. Semantics and functionality of the ceremonial tack of carriage- and saddle-horses in the 18th–early 20th centuries | 193
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| SUMMARY | 201
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| Contents | 203
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WOMAN ON HORSEBACK: THE HISTORY OF RIDING DRESS
Women are associated with horseback riding from time immemorial. Though women’s riding used to be not a sport but a mere pastime, it required nevertheless certain endurance, physical strength and techniques. Safe, practical and aesthetic riding dress was equally important since, as James Fillis put it, in this very sport trifles may cause a big problem to the rider, and the general outlook, clothing and behaving deserve as much attention as riding skills. These factors were instrumental in acquiring a good seat and learning handling the horse, especially in sidesaddle riding.
The book focuses on the evolution of women riders clothing in the period of its formation in the latter half of the 19th – 20th century. It emphasises the history of sports dress in the context of the history of modern olympism and women’s liberation movement. The chronological range of our study is between the 1860s and 1970s. Women riders’ outfit has fully evolved over a span of only a trifle over a century. The sidesaddle habit was the first women’s sports outfit. Initially it did not differ much from daily clothing being equally voluminous and excessively decorated. Its complex design unfit for physical exercises did not ensure safety for the woman rider. Gradually women’s riding dress has acquired its modern outlook. It has become unisex and, owing to an elaborate design and wide use of new materials and technologies, maximum safe.
The low and high boundaries of the study, the 1860s – 70s and the 1960 – 70s respectively, were the periods of new spirals in scientific revolution when scientific achievements furthered the elaboration of sports clothing including riding dress. This epoch saw its formation as well as the introduction of new materials and technologies provided by the Industrial Revolution and the following industrialisation. It was then that the horse ceased to be a mean of conveyance and horsemanship became both a popular hobby involving ordinary people and a sport, i.e. competitive riding.
The author puts the emphasis on the history of the competitive riding of the highest level of achievement where the limits of human and horse endurance are determined. The role of women in this field is worth noting since horse sports were long believed to be a purely male activity. Therefore the study is brought down to the 1970s when women have established their parity with men in equestrian events winning many top-class competitions.
 Шапиро Бэлла Львовна Российский историк и культуролог. Доктор культурологии, кандидат исторических наук, профессор РГГУ, профессор Школы-студии МХАТ. Читает лекции по истории и философии костюма и моды, истории материальной культуры, истории русской культуры. Автор более 130 научных публикаций, большая часть из которых — «конные», в том числе докторская диссертация «Всадник как символический образ власти в русской культуре XVI – начала XX вв.: материальный контекст» и монография «Русский всадник в парадигме власти». Основная область научных интересов — конь и всадник Средневековья и Нового времени.
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